Rolled Hem with an Overlocker

Rolled Hem with an Overlocker

Three Thread Rolled Hem

Most overlockers can sew a rolled hem stitch. The rolled hem stitch is sewn using either two or three threads, depending on your model - be sure check your instruction manual first. Rolled Hemming is suitable for light weight fabrics such as voile, organdy, crepe etc.

Set up your machine for Rolled Hemming – check your manual. Click here to download a free copy of your Singer manual.

The stitch length adjustment is critical to the finished look of the rolled hem stitch. If the stitch length is too short, the stitching may fall of the edge or it may be too heavy for lightweight fabrics, causing a stiffer edge; if too long the fabric may pucker.
Before sewing your project, practice stitching on fabric scraps. To achieve perfect rolled hem stitches, refer to the information below.

Start with a 3 thread overlock stitch before adjusting tension for a three thread rolled hem.

Adjust stitch length to under 1mm for a filled-in edge finish that has body or stiffness; adjust stitch length up to 2mm for a softer edge finish that is less filled-in.

Tighten lower looper thread tension dial to about 7. Then gradually increase the lower looper until you achieve the desired look. This means the upper looper thread is pulled around the edge of the fabric to the underside for a rounded rolled hem.

Loosen upper looper thread tension dial in addition to tightening the lower looper thread tension dial for flat, less-rounded, rolled hem, or if you are using a woolly nylon thread.

Loosen needle thread tension dial slightly if the fabric puckers length wise, or stitch using taut sewing.

For taut sewing hold the fabric firmly in front of and behind the presser foot while stitching, to prevent puckered seams. Do not pull the fabric through the machine. Sew at an even speed for smooth stitching.

For an interesting look, insert wire or fishing line between presser foot and knife. Sew, being careful not to cut wire or fishing line as you sew.

NOTE: For a beautiful rolled hem, thread the upper looper with woolly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread. This will give a more filled in look.

Three Thread Narrow Edge

If you are sewing on a fabric that just won’t roll, then try the Three Thread Narrow Edge for an alternative finish. The stitches should encase the raw edge to prevent the fabric from fraying. This stitch is neater than a 4 thread stitch and gives a professional finish to your project..

14HD854 / 14SH654 Narrow Edge

  1. Remove the Left Needle
  2. Move Seam Width to setting R (inside cover panel under the needle plate)
  3. Set Stitch Length Dial to 'F - 2' (on the right hand side of machine)
  4. Thread, in order, as per your manual
  5. Tension – see below for suggested settings. These may vary depending on the fabric.

Note: Check your manual for other overlocker models.

Tension Adjustments Polyester Thread

  1. Right Needle (Green) - 3.0
  2. Upper Looper (Orange) - 5.0
  3. Lower Looper (Yellow) - 3.0

Tension Adjustments when using Woolly Nylon in the Upper Looper

  1. Right Needle (Green) - 3.0
  2. Upper Looper (Orange) - 3.5
  3. Lower Looper (Yellow) - 3.5