Christmas time is almost here! Get into the festive spirit with this cute dress.
Requirements List:
- Red fabric: 2m (148cm roll)
- Green fabric: 1m (148cm Roll)
- Co-ordinating thread: x1 for sewing and x 4 for overlocker
- Sewing Machine
- Overlocker
- Trim
- McCalls Pattern M7351
- McCalls Pattern M7834
Please note, all pattern pieces were cut out and tested before making the final garment. All alterations were based on a bodice being too big.
All seams are 1.5cm (5/8”)
Cutting:
- Using pattern M7351, Pin skirt pattern only on to red fabric, including pockets. Note, The Zipper has been moved into the side seam, making the back pattern on the fold.
- Using back bodice of pattern M7834, place bodice on top of the back skirt of M7351 as if you were sewing the paper together. Using a pin or a tailors chalk, walk the patterns around to find out the extra allowance around the waist.
The pattern was 5cm too big at the back waist of the bodice, this also matched up with our test run of the bodice. The process was repeated with front patterns, which matched up perfectly.
- Place your back bodice on your fabric, pivot out the extra room. Ensure that you leave 1-2cm ease around the waist to allow for movement.
An alternate option would be to create a dart/s out of the excess fabric.
- Cut out front bodice and sleeve.
- Notch all dart points, pocket placements etc on fabric.
Construction
- Overlock pocket, repeat on all 4 pieces.
- On back skirt, attach one pocket piece to the left side. Sew down.
- Pin two pocket pieces together and stitch, leaving long straight edge unstitched.
- On front skirt, attach remaining single pocket piece to the right hand side. Pin pocket bag (step 3) to left side ensuring that you only sew one side of the pocket bag. Sew down.
- Overlock all side edges of skirt.
- Pin side seams of front and back, including single sewn pockets.
- Sew together, ensuring that you pivot and sew the pocket.
- Leave remaining side seam separate to attach the zipper.
- Follow pattern M7834 for preparing the center front placket and shirt darts.
- Pin shoulder seams of front and back together. Sew.
- Overlock sleeve hem, fold up 1-2cm and stitch down.
- Stitch a gathering stitch onto sleeve head on both sleeves.
- Pin sleeves into position on bodice, you will need to slightly ease around curve. Sew down and overlock.
- Overlock side seams
- Pin and stitch left side seam, ensure you leave right side separated for zipper.
- Refer to pattern instructions M7834 for collar construction and attachment. Pin center fronts together for skirt.
- Pin skirt and bodice together. Sew.
- Using your ruler, mark in 1.5cm on the unsewn side seam. Repeat for front and back.
- Starting 3-5cm under the sleeve seam, start pinning your invisible zipper.
- Repeat for other side of the zipper. At the pocket point, pivot from the dress to the unsewn pocket seam. Pivot back to dress seam once the zipper reaches the end of the pocket.
- Sew zipper into place, using your invisible zipper foot.
- When at pocket point, lift presser foot keeping needle in fabric. Push the pocket to the right. Lover the presser foot and continue sewing. repeat process, pulling pocket back to the left once you reach the end. Continue to the end of the zipper.
- Pin the remaining unsewn parts of your seam. Using the standard zipper foot, continue the seam up to the zipper. Repeat process on the under sleeve seam.
- On your green fabric, cut out a 15cm strip x the length of the base of your skirt. Repeat the process for the front and back.
- Sew both front and back side seams together and overlock.
- Overlock base of green strip.
- Attach strip to dress. Sew and overlock.
- Fold hem of skirt up 1-2cm and stitch down.
- Hand stitch press studs in place onto bodice, ensuring there is one placed at bust point.
- Attach trims and decorate your dress to your taste.