Decorative trims give your garments style and provide a way to add your own personal touch. Some trims – like bias tape – are also helpful in construction. There are several application methods, depending on the style of the trim and the way it is used.
Hand-stitched trim: Raised trim must be attached by hand. Slipstitch the trim to the fabric with thread that is the same colour as the fabric.
Machine-stitched band trim:Secure the trim in place with basting tape or fabric adhesive. If the trim is less than 1/4″ (6mm) wide, machine-stitch down the centre. If it is wider than 1/4″ (6mm), machine-stitch both long edges in the same direction.
Bias Tape:Open the tape and, with right sides together, pin it to the fabric, matching cut edges. Stitch along the fold line closest to the raw edge.
Fold the binding up and over to encase the raw edge. On the right side of the fabric, edgestitch the binding in place. (This stitching will catch the underneath layer, which is slightly wider than the top layer.)
Fold-over braid: With the narrower edge on the right side of the fabric, encase the raw edge with the braid. Hand-baste all layers. Topstitch close to the inside edge.
Edging in a seam:Working on the right side of the fabric, align the unfinished edge of the trim with the raw edge of the fabric, with seam lines matching. Baste. Pin the two fabric layers together with the trim between. Stitch. Use a zipper foot if the trim doesn’t lie flat.
Edging along a finished edge: Position the wrong side of the folded or hemmed fabric edge on top of the edging and topstitch. Or sew the trim on the right side of the fabric and cover the seam with ribbon.
Insertion Trim:Pin or glue the trim to the right side of the fabric and top-stitch it along both straight edges (in the same direction). From the wrong side, cut the fabric down the center, between the two rows of stitching, to create seam allowances. Press the seam allowances away from each other, exposing the trim. Edgestitch though all layers close to the folds. Trim the seam allowances close to the edgestitching.
Seam Binding/seam tape:To hem loosely woven fabrics, stitch the edge of the tape or binding 1/4″ (6mm) from the raw edge of the fabric. To clean-finish loosely woven seam allowances, press the tape or binding in half and wrap it over the raw edge. Edgestitch in place.
Piping:Apply piping just as you would in a edging seam. Attach the zipper foot so you can stitch as close to the trim as possible.
Twil Tape: To reinforce a seam, center twil tape over the seam line, inside the garment, and stitch it in place. To extend seam allowances, machine-stitch one edge of the tape to the raw edge of the fabric.